The earliest recorded evidence of wine was a Kwevri or large vessel discovered in Georgia. Chemical analysis of the sediment in the pottery demonstrated cultivated grapes in 5000 BCE. The technique was to crush the grapes as illustrated in the September page of the Tres Riches heures de Duc de Berry , pour them into the Kwevri which was then buried up its neck for several months. After this time the clear juice was ladled out and used in libations (religious offerings ) or drunk. The drinking seemed to catch on quickly and there is much evidence in ancient pottery and carvings of wine being a way of life.

 

Ferdowsi the Persian poet, in the epic Shahnameh, describes a member of the harem trying to drown herself in a wine vessel because of headaches but in doing so swallowed a quantity and found her headaches improved along with her mood! Eubulus , the Greek playwright , in 375 BCE noted the importance of drinking in moderation , never more than 3 cups, or chaos would ensue. Advice which apparently Charlemagne followed strictly.

Excavations in Pompeii and Herculaneum have clearly demonstrated wine bars were a thing in the ancient world though exclusively men only. Bars and even a wine list wall painting are still visible today.

 

David illustrated his story with wonderful art, monumental sculptures, Georgian cartoons of excess, Florentine wine windows, (bruschetta del vino) photos of the Church’s ability to own and control some of the best viniculture in Europe behind high stone walls. We learnt of Dutch trade boats called Fluyts with unsurpassed cargo capacity and their introduction of “dutch matches “ (sulphur dioxide) to prevent the wine oxidising and going off. Now we know why modern wine is labelled as containing sulphites. Wine was enjoyed all over the known world and international trade boomed.

 

In 1864 however as a consequence of this international reach, a small aphid Phylloxera, arrived from North America where it is native and devastated the french grapes. Out of the destruction came newer, stronger rootstock which the old European varieties were grafted on to. Like a phoenix the mighty French wine industry rose up again and to this day dominates the global wine market despite famous makers like Kylie Minogue and Ian Botham launching their own labels.

 

Climate change is now threatening this dominance . Extreme weather means wine production is moving. We all know of the rapid increase of vineyards in our part of Hampshire.

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Last word to the inimitable Madame Bollinger of Champagne fame who said "I drink champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am.”

Lucy Picton-Turbervill